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Skládání
stříbrného základu
pozdějšího šperku |
Jeden
z typických šperků
(srdce) v rukou šperkařky |
Třídění
a kontrola
obroušených kamenů |
Thanks to their
beautiful red colour, Czech garnets,
which are only found
in the Czech Republic, have always held a unique position among other
natural stones. The traditional manufacture of jewellery using Czech
garnets, which dates back to the 18th century, is successfully carried
on today by Granát, Družstvo umělecké výroby Turnov. (Genuine Czech
garnets are hallmarked with the letter G or G1).
Historic deposits of Czech garnets were only found
in Bohemia,
especially in the Bohemian Uplands, since prehistory to the end of the
19th century. Poorer quality garnets also come from the area around
Kolín nad Labem and Podkrkonoší.
The state’s goldsmith workshops began using Czech
garnets in around the
13th to 14th century. Among the countless historical relics, one of the
oldest examples, apart from the coronation cross of King Přemysl Otakar
I, which is kept in the cathedral treasury in Regensburg, is a pendant
from the grounds of the Monastery of the Knights of the Cross near
Charles Bridge.
Prospecting, mining and processing methods for
garnets were perfected
at the beginning of the New Age. Stone cutters and polishers quickly
developed their techniques and skills at the grinding mills in
Prague-Bubenec, Brandýs nad Labem and Český Krumlov. At the turn
of the 17th and 18th century, one stone cutting workshop, Jiří
Witthaler and Sons, had a monopoly on cutting and polishing Czech
garnets in Prague.
Garnet jewellery (coin frames, medals and
medallions, chains, crosses,
rings), clothing accessories (bonnets, clasps, hooks, buckles, buttons)
and other haberdashery items from the so-called rural baroque period to
19th century historicism were not the sole domain of country folk. Many
items were also bought by the poorer burghers.
Industrial design appeared in garnet jewellery at
the end of the 18th
century and especially from the mid 19th century, influenced, among
other things, by the publicity of world expos, beginning with the first
in London in 1851, where Czech garnet manufacturers regularly won
awards. North Bohemian manufacturers of metal costume jewellery took
advantage of the boom, including companies such as
August Menzel in Jablonec nad Nisou, as well as others in this region
and in Prague. Together with more expensive jewellery using Czech
garnets, they also produced more affordable pieces using glass
imitations.
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